Introduction
The “Kolhapuri issue” refers to a heated controversy in the global fashion world after Italian luxury label Prada unveiled sandals in its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection that closely resembled India’s iconic Kolhapuri chappals. What began as praise for the beauty of traditional Indian craftsmanship quickly transformed into debates over cultural appropriation, intellectual property, and the rights of artisan communities.
What Are Kolhapuri Chappals?
Kolhapuri chappals are handcrafted leather sandals originating from the Kolhapur district of Maharashtra, India. With a legacy spanning centuries, these sandals are known for:
- Intricate braided leather straps
- Vegetable-tanned leather and hand-stitching
- Deep cultural, regional, and artisanal significance
- Geographical Indication (GI) tag status in India since 2019, recognizing their unique heritage
Traditionally, Kolhapuris are crafted by families of local artisans, supporting thousands of livelihoods in Maharashtra and Karnataka.
What Sparked the Controversy?
Prada’s Milan Show
- On June 22, 2025, Prada debuted its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection at Milan Fashion Week.
- Several looks featured open-toe leather sandals that were almost indistinguishable from the classic Kolhapuris.
- The collection made no explicit mention of “Kolhapuri,” India, or any regional origin; the show notes described them simply as “leather sandals”.
Immediate Reactions
- Indian fashion commentators, designers, and artisans recognized the design instantly and criticized Prada for failing to credit the craft’s heritage.
- Accusations of cultural appropriation flooded social media, with hashtags such as #payartisans and #kolhapuriNotCopy trending in India.
- Local authorities and artisan organizations, including the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce and the Dr. Babu Jagjivan Ram Leather Industries Development Corporation (official co-owners of the Kolhapuri GI tag), took action by sending legal notices and demanding ₹500 crore in damages.
Key Points of Contention
1. Lack of Acknowledgement
Prada’s initial marketing and presentation failed to acknowledge the Indian origins of the design, sparking outrage about erasure of artisanal legacy. Many noted that while fashion houses often draw “inspiration” from global cultures, explicit credit and compensation for original communities is rare.
2. Commercial Exploitation
While genuine Kolhapuri chappals retail in India for ₹1,000–₹4,000, Prada’s versions were reportedly priced at over ₹1.2 lakh (more than €1,300), spotlighting the vast economic disparity.
3. Intellectual Property & GI Rights
Artisan groups argued that since Kolhapuri chappals enjoy GI protection in India, their use by an international brand without due process or collaboration constituted infringement. Prada maintained that while inspired by traditional designs, the brand avoided using the “Kolhapuri” name or any GI-specific identifiers, and thus did not violate formal GI rights outside India.
4. Ethical Fashion & Cultural Appropriation
The debate expanded into a broader conversation about the ethical responsibilities of global fashion giants: who gets to own, profit from, or celebrate indigenous design?.
Prada’s Response and Next Steps
Formal Response
- Following legal action and sustained backlash, Prada acknowledged that its sandals were “inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage,” and publicly recognized the cultural significance of Indian craftsmanship.
- Prada representatives visited Kolhapur, met with local artisans, and promised to foster “responsible design practices” and consider a limited-edition “Made in India” collection with Indian artisans.
Legal and Industry Reactions
- The Maharashtra state government, LIDCOM (Leather Industries Development Corporation of Maharashtra), and other bodies are reviewing potential legal recourse, although cross-border GI protection remains a challenge.
- The controversy galvanized discussion about the need for stronger international legal mechanisms to protect indigenous designs and knowledge.
Perspectives from Artisans and Experts
- Kolhapuri makers expressed both outrage at the lack of credit and hope that the global spotlight might eventually lead to fair recognition and greater demand for their craft.
- Several experts pointed out that this case exemplified a recurring trend in which luxury Western brands borrow non-Western design elements without collaboration or compensation, reigniting calls for more culturally sensitive and economically just fashion practices.
Conclusion
The Kolhapuri issue stands as a dramatic illustration of the tensions between inspiration, intellectual property, and cultural equity in global fashion. While Prada’s eventual acknowledgement marked a step forward, the episode highlights:
- The urgent need for explicit, proactive credit and partnerships when drawing upon cultural heritage
- Gaps in global IP protections for traditional crafts
- The importance of ethical sourcing and storytelling that genuinely benefits origin communities
As fashion becomes ever more global, ensuring respect for the world’s diverse cultural and artisanal legacies will be crucial for a truly inclusive and creative industry.
Sources:
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